Bouldering Over the Atlantic

Made it out for some bouldering today.  We went out to Schoodic Point by Acadia by taking Rt. 3 to avoid the National Park fee.  Parked at Great Head parking since Sand Beach parking lot was full. We had to walk an extra 15 minutes with our gear because of this and of course by the time we got to Sand Beach parking again, there were a few spots open.  Glad it was a cool day because climbing gear is heavy!

We followed a shaded path down to the beach and then took a path that split off to the left near the beach. It followed the peninsula around. We weren’t quite sure where the bouldering was (still aren’t) so we just kept checking out the boulders along the peninsula and took photos of the scenery, which was beautiful. I especially suggest checking out Sand Beach itself. It is nestled in a little cove between two cliffs. This makes the beach slightly protected from massive waves. The color of the water there today took on a Caribbean hue.

We reached the other side (east) of the peninsula and started checking out the rocky shoreline.  We weren’t confident of any of the places we stopped to boulder but decided to just go for it anyway.  So we made our way down to an area as good as any.  We didn’t notice any boulders but there were some decent cliff bands with good walk offs.  I would say the area we bouldered had problems that went up to V2 at most.  They were tall enough, but the only reason they were challenging was because of their sit-starts or one that Steve did that was a bulging overhang.  Most of the area is okay with one crash pad, with the exception of the overhang just mentioned.  He got through it, though, with only one scare

Overall, the area was fun, but not challenging. The beautify here is mostly that you have the ocean crashing up against the surrounding cliffs and spraying salt water into the air.  You’re surrounded by tide pools and seagulls who seemed to be watching our moves intently.  The bouldering itself is full of blocky rock that has some razor sharp edges but amazing holds and is grippy.  I’d suggest this area for a newbie to bouldering because most of the hard moves are near the safety of the mat (so the 1st 2 moves) and the tops are usually easy with good walk offs.

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